Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Coast, Winds, Waves and Tides

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I bet everyone has been down to the coasts, when there are big wave actions where the waves or smashing over the rocks.  The action of the waves and the sea shape our coasts through erosion, transportation, and deposition.

One of the most significant force for coastal changes the power of the waves.  Waves are created by the wind blowing over the surface of the sea, which produce a swell in the water.  The wind energy rotates water particles inside the swell which moves the wave forward.  The strength on the wind, how long has the wind been blowing and how far is the wave traveled influences the size and energy of a wave.

Waves can be constructive or destructive.  When the wave breaks in the water is washed up onto the beach (swash), and when the water runs back down the beach (backwash).  Constructive waves swash is stronger than the back wash and the opposite is true for a destructive wave.  Constructive waves will drop the sand, rock particles and pebbles that it has been carring by a process known as deposition.

These processes are continuing all the time and what cause a beach to change its appearance even daily.

The pictures were taken. The other day when the waves were high and the video was taken with low constructive waves.